Balenciaga
Introducing the Balenciaga scrunchie. And why not? This end-of-year collection is an apposite juncture at which to appreciate the workings of Demna Gvasalia’s sense of humor. At a preview in Paris last June, it was laid out for inspection in trays as this Resort lookbook was being shot. At times like this, when we’d all cry unless we laughed, Balenciaga’s absurdist accessories are perfectly timed. The jokes gleefully spark up the otherwise straight-faced continuity of the clothes, in which Gvasalia and his team have gone back to build on some of the foundations he’s laid down since placing an outsize Balenciaga logo on a stole in the first collection for Pre-Fall 2016. In effect, it was a preview of one of the things Gvasalia has pursued intently: his interest in logos and how they can be manipulated, retrieved from a brand-licensing past that was once regarded as beyond the pale of sophisticated taste, and then doused in the gasoline of ridiculous desirability again.